What's to see

Thimphu

Lying in a valley (elevation 2,350 m), Thimpu is unlike any other capital in the world. The traditional architecture of its houses and buildings is particularly striking - all embedded in a beautiful, wooded valley, sprawling up a hillside on the bank of the Thimphu Chhu (river.) This is the only world capital without traffic lights. One was installed several years ago, but residents complained about its impersonalness and it was removed within days. Despite recent development, Thimphu retains its charm and is awash with brightly painted, elaborately decorated facades which give the town a captivating, medieval feel.

The places to visit are the Memorial Chorten, dedicated to the late King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk; Tashichho Dzong, seat of the government of Bhutan and the summer residence of the central monk body; the Traditional Medicine Hospital where herbal medicines are prepared; the National Library, a treasure trove of ancient texts; the Institute of Zorig Chosum for thanka painting, sculpture, wood and slate carving, gold works, embroidery and traditional boot making; Changangkha Lakhang which contains ancient scriptures and thanka paintings; and Simtokha Dzong, Bhutan's oldest fortress which now houses a school for Buddhist studies. You can also visit the smithy on the other side of the Thimpu river to see traditional gold and silver smiths at work.

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Paro

Paro is 65 km (two hours drive) to the southwest of Thimpu. The Taktsang Monastery where Guru Rinpoche meditated to subdue evil spirits; Rinpung Dzong, venue of the Paro tsechu (festival); Ta Dzong which houses the National Museum ws completed in 1656; the ruins of Drukgyel Dzong, built to commemorate Bhutan's victory over Tibetan aggressors; Kyichu Lakhang, one of the oldest and most sacred temples in Bhutan; and Dungtse Lakhang with its extraordinary collection of religious paintings, are the places to see in the valley.

In April 1998 a fire destroyed the main structure of Taktshang Monastery, perhaps Bhutan's most photographed and famous site, perched on the side of a cliff 900m (2952ft) above the valley floor. It is also known as 'Tiger's Nest' because Guru Rimpoche is said to have flown to the site on the back of a tigress in the eighth century. It has been one of the kingdom's most sacred sites ever since, and will be rebuilt in its original style once an auspicious date has been chosen.

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Bumthang

It sounds like a blues bar in America's deep south but Bumthang is the spiritual heartland of Bhutan and home to its most ancient and precious Buddhist sites. (Smokers should stock up before arrival because the sale of tobacco is banned here.) In the centre of Bhutan, Bumthang encompasses four major valleys; the main one, Choskhor, is home to the most important dzongs, temples and palaces. Jakar is at the foot of the Choskhor valley and likely to be your base. Jakar Dzong is the largest in Bhutan with a circumference of more than 1500m (4920ft), and was founded in 1549. Wangdichholing Palace was formerly the humble abode of King Uygen Wangchuck.

Further along Choskhor Valley, the temple of Jambey Lhakhang was built in 659 and hosts one of the kingdom's most spectacular festivals, the Jambey Lhakhang Drup, in October. Kurjey Lhakhang is named after the body print of Guru Rimpoche which is preserved in a cave inside the oldest of the three buildings, which has stood since 1652. If you're feeling dzonged out and have had your fill of old, sacred buildings, take to the countryside. Here, the great majority of Bhutanese live as they have for thousands of years.

The best place to base yourself in the Bumthang region is Japar, just over 150km (93mi) from Thimpu. As with elsewhere in Bhutan, getting there is a matter of finding anything with wheels and renting it, flagging it, or catching it. It's either that or walk.

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Phobjika Valley

Phobjika is a glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountains, and is a designated conservation area nudging the borders of the Black Mountain National Park. It is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the country because of the large flock of rare, endangered black-necked cranes that winter there. These birds have a special place in Bhutanese folklore, and one of the most popular folk songs laments the time when the cranes leave the valley to return to Tibet. With permission from the Nature Conservation Section in Thimphu, you can view the roosting place of these birds. It's an awesome spectacle at dusk when all the birds from the valley congregate for the night.

Permanent residents of the valley include muntjaks (barking deer), wild boars, sambars, Himalayan black bears, leopards and red foxes. WWF has assisted in setting up the Khebethang Nature Study Centre in Phobjikha village, near the foot of the valley

Nearby, Black Mountain National Park is a vast area still in its natural state. It has an impressive array of plant species, and animals found there include tigers, Himalayan black bears, leopards, red pandas, gorals, serows, sambars, wild pigs and golden langurs.

To get to Phobjika, take the main road to Wangi, and then turn off down a dirt road for a further 13km (8mi). Thimpu to Phobjika is 94km (58km).

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WESTERN BHUTAN

Punakha, 77 km (three hours and 15 minutes drive) northeast of Thimpu, served as the capital of Bhutan until 1955 and, even today, it is the winter home of the central monk body. The Punakha Dzong houses many sacred artifacts and temples. The road from Thimpu to Punakha crosses the 3,115-m Dochula pass.

Wangdi Phodrang (or Wangdi) is situated 70 km (three hoursí drive) southeast of Thimpu. The Wangdi Phodrang Dzong played a key role during the unification of Bhutan. Enroute from Wangdi to Tongsa is the Gangtey Gompa, the biggest Nyingmapa monastery in Bhutan.

CENTRAL BHUTAN

Trongsa is 129 km (four and half hours drive) east of Wangdi and crosses the 3,300 m Pelela pass. The Trongsa Dzong, the ancestral home of Bhutan's Royal Family, houses 23 temples. The watchtower, Ta Dzong, has a temple dedicated to King Gesar, the hero of a great epic.

Bumthang consists of the valleys of Chumey, Choekhor, Tang and Ura. It takes two and half hours to reach Bumthang, 68 km northeast of Trongsa. Bumthang is ideal for making excursions to the many monasteries and shrines - Tharpaling, Choedrak, Tamshing, Kurjey, Jambey, Kunzangdra among others - as well as to Mebartso, ìthe flaming lakeî.

EASTERN BHUTAN

Mongar is 198 km (seven hours drive) southeast of Bumthang. The road to Mongar crosses Thumshingla (3,800 m), the highest pass in Bhutan. The Mongar Dzong is relatively new compared to the other dzongs of the Kingdom.

Lhuntshi is 76 km (three hours drive) north of Mongar. The landscape here is spectacular with stark cliffs and gorges, and dense coniferous forests. This district is famous for its weavers and the fine quality of fabrics they produce.

The 90-km trip from Mongar to Trashigang, the easternmost district, takes four hours. Some 20 km before Trashigang is the Dametsi Monastery, the most important monastery of eastern Bhutan. After Thimpu, Trashigang is the largest urban center where the Trashigang Dzong stands over the Gamri river. Tashi Yangtse, north of Trashigang, has a dzong and the Nepalese style Chorten Kora.